When the valves have been removed you need to check for any obvious signs of pitting on the valves and valve seats.Provided there are on signs the valves need to be ground into there seats. this is done using a carborundum paste on the edge of the valve and a suction grinding stick.
Start off with the coarse paste using a semi-rotary action and lifting the valve out of the seat occasionally to redistribute the paste, and then finish off with a fine paste using the same action.
As soon as a matt grey unbroken line appears around the valve and seat the valve is ground in.
All traces of the carbon paste must be removed as if it works it way into the engine in will cause havoc with cylinder walls and bearings.
Using a valve spring compressor to compress the valve spring until the split collets can be slid into place.
All eight valves refitted to the head.
Next the cam shaft is refitted, make sure that you renew the front oil seal before fitting the cam.
The cam bearing need to be oiled before the cam is installed, for this I used cam lube (red oil on cam in photo) but engine oil will do the same job. Don't spare the lube when fitting the cam 'splash in all over' like you where using a well known aftershave that used to be advertised.
The cam is fitted from the rear of the head and pushed through the bearing and is held in place by a thrust plate at the rear.
Cam followers in place, The valve clearances are set to 0.008 inlet and 0.010 exhaust on a standard engine, but as this engine as a performance cam fitted they need to be set to 0.010 inlet and 0.012 exhaust This is set by using a set of feeler gauges between the cam and the follower.
Oil spray bar also fitted Ford part number 1490126 held in place by three bolts.
the cylinder head is about ready to go back on to the engine block.
